Monday, September 28, 2015

Hong Kong Day 3

So far Hong Kong has felt more interesting than foreign, but with a foreign twist, enough English being spoken, and enough signs to get around easily.  For breakfast, we went American style as Isabel has been 7 months without an American breakfast. Here's a pic of me and Loren at breakfast.


Today we went Kowloon side - (took the Star Ferry across) which is very different.  We went there to go to the local markets, though those were pretty disappointing.  We knew that there would be fakes and knockoffs - but the quality was extremely poor.
Still, great people watching and tremendous ethnic diversity - Afghanis, Somalis, Malaysians, Filipinos, Arab women in full burkhas, etc.  And we saw even more jewelry - the custom is to give ostentatious gifts for weddings, and other big occasions, and it's all 24 karat gold.  Huge necklaces that are more like breastplates, bangle bracelets that are 3"-4" wide, etc.  no pics as didn't want to get security after us.

Here are some images from the markets and the surrounding buildings.


Note laundry drying outside many of the windows.







Random notes on Hong Kong:
- It's very clean - zero litter, and trash cans well placed
- Very few people smoke, and there are special cans to collect ashes and butts
- Really easy to get around - mostly walking, also the MTR, and taxis are very affordable.  If we had a little more time, might have learned the bus system, but have enjoyed walking and peering into shops...well ok, going into shops, esp ones with AC


- AC is a wonderful thing!
- Space is a great and expensive luxury
- conspicuous consumption is alive and thriving here - about every third car is a Tesla or Mercedes or other high end brand - haven't seen any trashed/old cars
- food is excellent, thanks to Loren's great research, we have had fantastic meals....and speaking of, next stop was to Michelin star restaurant.  Crowd outside, and took us a minute to figure out how to get "name on the list" .  Turns out you tell the hostess the number in your party and she gives you a ticket with a number on it.  She calls the numbers in Cantonese, and Isabel and I think it took extra long to get to our turn,  We go inside, and are seated by a number, marked on the table- each seat has a corresponding number, and you share tables.  We sat across from a big family group, and one of the women fed the grandmother.  She (grandmother) gummed her food, and as she finished, dropped the bones from her mouth onto the table.  Very matter of fact.  The elderly, as you might know, are given lots of respect, and helped along.  In her case, she was helped along by the s at of her pants - literally- her granddaughter grabbed the back of pants waistband and walked her out.  Hard not to laugh.  It's good to see several generations together - haven't seen old grandfathers though, just old ladies.

Took the MTR back - long day.  Loren and Isabel rallied for a late night feast of noodles and roast meats (duck and pork).

Sunday, September 27, 2015

Day 2 Hong Kong

Isabel comes today - super excited!

She arrives at 12:45 and so we have time for breakfast and shopping.  Amazingly, there are French bakeries on almost every street, and we had chocolate croissants and a raspberry financier.  With coffee of course!  Then we hit the streets for more shopping.

Still crazy hot and humid - and for those of you in CC who think you might be used to it, I have one word HAH. Because of the density, there is no breeze, and even the locals are uncomfortable.

Back to hotel to wait for Isabel - so great to see her and give her a big hug.  It's been 7 months which was too long.

Then we went out for noodles - with shrimp dumplings for me, and pork dumplings for the meat eater.  Tiny place, and we got to see the dumpling guy make them - Isabel's estimate is that he did about 30/minute.  I just say that his hands were constantly in motion.

Then we shopped - in the rain.  Rain kinda cooled things down, but the humidity rose to about 200%!

Back to the hotel for me, while Loren and Isabel shopped for a while at "mall" PMQ with many small shops of items made in Hong Kong.

They came back, rested, then out to see city at night.
Intro of prototype Mercedes model

Central Pier

Enormous Apple Store


Night View from room



Hong Kong Day 1

Here's the view from our room.





Hong Kong is DENSE.  With 8 million people, on just over 400 sq miles, they've had to build up.  As I mentioned, it's also steep, and there are mountains where you can't build.  I can try to relate it to an ant hill, but until you've been here, you've really no idea.
The people are on average 5'5" and well under 100 lbs, but not anorexic- just wiry.  Of course there are the tiny grandmas, who come up to my shoulder if that.  And there are some portly people too.  EVERYONE is on phone just about non stop, texting and watching videos and gaming.  Lots of chatter - mostly Cantonese, though occasionally Mandarin- I can tell the tones apart, that's all.

Back to our day - headed out and rode Escalator to find dim sum.  BTW escalator has saved my knees!

 Loren had done recon, and we went to Lin Hueng for dim sum. We found a seat at the power table - notable for the deference given to Mr. Big - and proceeded to slurp tea and eat some pretty good dim sum.  So crowded that you go to the carts, rather than having them come to you.  For those of you who don't know dim sum, it's lots and lots of steamed foods served 2-3 pieces in a bamboo steamer.  Loren thought it didn't live up to hype, but that's partly because dim sum is best enjoyed with a large party, where everyone gets tastes.  The shrimp dishes were very good - and very shrimp taste forward.

Then we wandered through Central District- an amazing mix of streets with ultra high end shops and galleries connected by alleys with street stalls selling tourist knickknacks, fruit, jewelry, etc.  Almost always, you are within 3-5 feet of burning incense- either in a niche in a wall. Or in a tin can
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Two businesses to highlight - a man with a tiny printing press is the very entrepreneurial essence of making money.

 And new way god.com.hk, a great shop.

So, the weather.  At this point, temperature was 95, and humidity was 100%, meaning heat index approached 109.  I was wilting in body, but my hair was rivaling Diana Ross.  Back to hotel for much needed shower and nap.  Not sure if it was the nap or the temperature really did drop, but going out again was fine.

We took the MRT to Times Square, one of the many shopping areas.  A literal sea of people - fun fact, the crosswalks are for the whole intersection so that a mob can cross and you can get to any corner.  Streets are crowded, and from British influence, they drive on left side.

We went to the Times Square Tower, which had a De Beers store, as well as Fendi, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, etc. Not a lot of people shopping, so we went out to the street.  The HK Times Square makes New York's look like a graveyard by comparison.  Big promotion for new movie Pan, with life size Jolly Roger ship in middle of square.  Heading out to the streets was amazing - shops everywhere with high end goods, zillions of watches for sale, everything from Swatch to Glashutte.  We saw at least 6 Rolex stores.  And yes, everyone wears watches. I tend to say "everyone" a lot I've noticed- it is a generalization but mostly true.

Anyhow, we grabbed a cab to Seventh Son, a high end restaurant seventhson.hk
So swanky that you are met at the street door, and escorted up in elevator, then seated by the same person.  Very nice.  We were both baffled by set of double chopsticks and had to ask the waiter.  The black ones are for serving, he informed us; the white ones are for hygiene (eating).


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 Again, very nice.
And the food ..... To use Loren's words,"surprisingly attentive service, and food was sublime.
Quality ingredients with the natural flavors  coming through."

If you don't know, Chinese food has many, many, many styles and influences.  We were eating traditional Cantonese cooking.  Pork belly braised, with a crispy skin; birds nest soup, and their special chicken - with skin crisped like Peking duck.  Also, shrimp dumplings that tasted like the essence of shrimp, and gai lon (a style of broccoli) with crab sauce.  We were of course escorted down the elevator and back to the street.


The cab ride back to the hotel took us past several high end car dealerships - Mercedes and Ferraris.

Great day - sooooo looking forward to seeing Isabel tomorrow.


Day 1 - the Journey

And it was a journey.  We started off leaving Bozeman at 6 am, Wednesday 9/23 and arrived in Seattle at 7, two hours of flying minus an hour for time change.
What to do for the next 6 hours until check in for our next flight?  Well, if you are with Loren, there's a good chance you will be eating. And if you're with me, there's an equally good chance you will be shopping.  So with plenty of time - we did both.
Took the light rail from airport into downtown- super easy.  Then trundled off with our suitcases- did I mention we went carry on? Such the way to go - no waiting and no lost luggage.
Anyhow, back on streets of Seattle, and we've gone 2 blocks when suddenly we see streets blocked off, and intense police presence.  President of China was visiting- saw both supporters waving flags, and protesters with banners.



Still far too early for his appearance- so we kept going to our destination, Serious Biscuit, a part of the Tom Douglas empire.  Fried green tomatoes, with remoulade sauce, on giant biscuit. Delicious, and equally great was a real newspaper.  Did the NY Times crossword while sipping coffee. City life.
Heading back to Nordstrom- again saw people lining the streets.  Waited around for a while, but his motorcade sneaked out some back route.  Quick stop at Nordstrom Rack to buy some warmer leggings for plane ride, and a quick tour of the renovations at the Nordstrom flagship store, then back to the train to airport.  Still had time, so got to watch the canonization of Junipero Serra.  Wish that there had been less CNN commentary so I could have heard, but still glad I saw.
On board Delta, was glad to see blanket and pillow.  In spite of inedible airplane food (naturally Loren had provided good food), the crew was great and tried to keep us well hydrated. Long flight - 14 hrs, plus 14 hr time difference - landing in Hong Kong at 7:30 pm on Thursday.
Hong Kong airport was easy, cleared immigration in a few minutes, and got on the Airport Expess to downtown and caught a cab to our hotel, Bishop Lei International Hotel
You can look at Harbor View Suite pics to get an idea of our room, and see how well a fish eye lens makes a room appear larger.
Best way to beat jet lag is to get on local time asap so I took a shower and fell in bed.  Loren, aka Mr. Adventure, decided to look for food and wound up hiking around half of Hong Kong, or so he claims.  Hong Kong has a unique feature - an outdoor escalator  - that is right by our hotel.  It runs down from 6 am to 10 am, and then up from 10 am to midnight.  He walked down - but missed catching escalator back up. Believe me, that was a bummer.  The streets are so steep that it's like being on a ladder.  And the worst part?  He never got dinner😢😢 but did manage to get beer and bottled water at a convenience store.
Side note, we aren't really sure if water is safe, but sign above hotel sink says water must be boiled before drinking- going to err on cautious side.